Upon arriving in Sant Sadurni I was very under-impressed. This village is the "seat" of cava production and yet it looked like a deserted and run down town. However...looks can be deceiving, which is why I love this photo - the town may be a bit run down, but there is still plenty of beauty, even in the most unexpected place.
With a little time I began to understand more about village. Yes, it is run down and there are very few dining options and EVERYTHING still closes for siesta, but the wine produced in this village is outstanding, and with everything closed in the middle of the day it allowed for a siesta of our own on a park bench overlooking the river. A friend who works at one of the wineries on Sant Sadurni said it best, "The town seems deserted because everyone is underground!" He was right! This little village sits a fairly large hill that is tunneled into wine cellars. Wine cellars full of cava.
Sant Sadurni is about a 45 minute commuter train ride outside of Barcelona's Plaça de Catalunya station. There are a few large wineries here that offer tourist focused tours of their property. I like these tours, you typically get good information and I enjoy seeing how a large winery operates. BUT the best of Sant Sadurni lies in the small family owned and hand-operated wineries. Having the opportunity to talk with a septuagenarian about his life growing up with the vineyards and playing in the cellar as a child is unforgettable. The pride he shows while sharing his family photos is very touching. Then to taste the wine that his father and now his children and grandchildren are striving to perfect is a truly special experience.
I spent some time Waiting for the Train in Sant Sadurni d'Anoia on my three trips there last summer and plan to do the same this summer.
Interested in traveling here? Consider visiting the following but be sure to schedule your visits with each winery ahead of time:
Recaredo (appointments only)
Llopart
Codorniu
Freixenet
